Miller Welding

2018.08.23 18:02 illusum Miller Welding


2023.02.16 04:29 Choneybandits I’m going to buy my first welder, looking for advice

I’m looking to buy a welder, and I have some questions to ask about which one I should get. I want a portable welder for around 2000$ that can do Stick and Mig with enough amps to do most welding. I’m a beginner welder but went through a certification program in trade school so I know how to weld just fine. I’m not too concerned about the duty cycle
These are the ones I’m considering
The Lincoln 215i MP (top choice)
The Lincoln 210 MP
Weldpro 200
Miller Multimatic 215
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2022.11.15 04:04 FuckLemonJuice What type of respirator mask would fit under my helmet ?

I'm using a Miller digital black clearlight 2.0!/?product-options-title=digital-performance-black-clearlight-2-0-289842
submitted by FuckLemonJuice to Welding [link] [comments]

2022.11.07 04:40 KarlJay001 Does DC polarity matter on a Bosch 12VDC relay?

UPDATE: It looks like polarity does matter at least because of the cap. So wire 45 should be 12VDC +
I upgraded the rectifier in a 70's TIG welder and I can't find the pictures that I took at the time, but I drew out the wiring.
It's an old 70's 4 wire selenium rectifier that is used to pull 12VAC from a source and convert it to DC in order to run a Bosch style relay that turns on/off a HF start function.
I wrote down the wiring, but I didn't test for which was 12VDC + and -. So I don't know the polarity and it's a failing rectifier which is a health concern, so I'd rather not wire it back up, just to test polarity if I don't have to.
Q1. on a Bosch 12VDC relay, does polarity matter?
Q2. on an old selenium rectifier, what are the four wires? AC, DC+, AC, DC- ?
It's the same style as the long one in this video:
This is the welder, the wiring diagram is on page 3, lower right SR3 is what is being replaced. The wires to the old rectifier are: 46, 47, 45, 43 (in order from left to right) and 47 came from the variable resistor R3. 47 puts out 12VAC and CR1 takes 12VDC.
What I have now is a modern rectifier:
The AC wires to the rectifier don't matter in terms of polarity, but CR1 has a cap (C10) with + on the wire 45 which was the 3rd wire from the old rectifier.
submitted by KarlJay001 to AskElectronics [link] [comments]

2022.09.07 03:26 Master_Scythe Eye safety and darkness levels.

I've only ever welded as a hobby. And usually only mig tacks to take away for tig finishing by a pro.
But I recently came into posession of a weak, but decent quality Cigweld MIG, would like to do my own full welds of things like exhaust and brackets (grew up in the hotrod scene), and have a unique problem.
I have an anoying vision disablity. It GREATLY affects how I see contrast.
As such, I'm finding that I like my helmet at MUCH lower (more transparent) shades than what is recommended.
I do have a friend who is an engineer (specialising in welding), and he was explaining that most of my risk is very temporary, because a mask, even at its lightest setting, has UV and IR shielding, so I'm really just risking 'temporary flash', as opposed to burns, which (apparently?) isn't a risk unless it's many hours a day constantly.
I was looking for 2nd and 3rd opinions on this from other professionals; because when you try to research this, you find non-stop "industry standards" and legally binding things from manufacturers;
things like this:
Does anyone have any old-school knowledge or experience to share on this?
submitted by Master_Scythe to Welding [link] [comments]

2022.06.07 03:49 KarlJay001 Need help debugging a welding machine's relay that won't work. Stuck trying to understand rectifier.

I have an old TIG welder that uses a relay to HF (High Frequency) start. I had a problem with it about a year ago and cleaning seemed to work, but now it's not even getting 12VDC to it.
Here's the PDF and the diagram is on page A (3rd page). The relay in question is CR1 and it has wires 45 & 46 attached to the relay coil. I applied 12VDC +/- to 45 & 46 and it closed the relay. But it doesn't do this itself. So it looks like the relay is working.
The relay CR1 gets its power from a rectifier. It's an old selenium rectifier with several wires coming from it. 3rd page lower right CR1 and SR3.
The HF works when the switch is on CONT, the switch has been checked (S6 bottom middle of 3rd page)
When I put a 12VDC test light on 45/46 it doesn't light up, but when I apply 12VDC +/- from a motorcycle battery, the relay coil works.
Q1. What should the output of 45 and 46 on the rectifier? Should it be 12VDC + on one and - on the other?
Q2. is putting a 12VDC test light on 45 and 46 a valid test?
Q3. what should I test?
This machine has been working fine after I cleaned things up last year. No idea what happened to make it stop working last year or now. Last year I bought a brass brush and contact cleaner and cleaned things up, along with the relay contact, but I"m pretty sure the relay was moving last year, so IDK if it's a related problem.
submitted by KarlJay001 to AskElectronics [link] [comments]

2022.06.05 04:27 KarlJay001 Anyone here know how to read an electrical diagram? My TIG HF start isn't working again.

About a year ago, my 1970's AirCo (rebadged Miller) 250 stopped doing HF start and then the control for the argon tank stayed open.
I was able to fix the HF and rigged up an external switch for the argon control (goofy but it gets me by).
Now the HF has stopped again. Last time, I cleaned up the bullets that are down in the front and gapped them. I cleaned up the CR1, CR2, CR3 (relays) with a brass brush and contact cleaner, and it started working.
I opened it up and CR1 is not moving ever. I tried start and continuous, CR1 never moves. Continuous does do non-stop HF, so the HF does work there, but not on start.
Looking at the diagram, I see how it's wired and it's listed.
It's listed like this:
CR1: RELAY, enclosed 12 volts dc DPDT w/flange
CR2: RELAY, enclosed 120 voltes DPDT w/flange
CR3: RELAY, 24 voltes ac DPDT flanged case
CR1 is the one NOT moving AND it DC. It also has an adjuster nut on the end where you can adjust how close it is to the electromagnet, the others don't.
So if it's DC, it has to go thru the rectifier, but the diagram has both CR1 and CR2 using the same wire and switch.
At this point, because the CR1 uses DC and the CR2 uses AC, I'm going to guess that it's a problem with the rectifier to the relay because continuous works and CR2 works.
I'm trying to understand the logic of the system, one switch and two relays connected together but one is AC and the other is DC.
The diagram is at the start and the CR1, CR2, CR3 are near the bottom right with the switch labeled CONT / START. One wire coming from the T2 to the relays, then the switch.
CR1 is also in the upper right of the diagram, but with a circle, don't know what the circle indicates.
submitted by KarlJay001 to Welding [link] [comments]

2022.01.07 15:49 ICBPeng1 Why do doctors wear disposable masks?

I understand the need to wear a mask, but, I’m learning to weld, and I’ve got a reusable respirator.
It’s more comfortable to breathe in, and the only reason that I don’t wear it in public is that it has no filters for exhalation.
So why aren’t there masks for doctors with swappable, washable, filters?
This is the mask in question btw
submitted by ICBPeng1 to NoStupidQuestions [link] [comments]

2021.12.07 22:59 Nerezarga Which Welder Should I purchase

I have a bbq pit on a trailer I am doing work on, and was thinking of getting the Miller Thunderbolt 210: The problem is that the power at my house is terrible, and trips the breaker when using my Miter Saw, so I imagine it would be worse with a welder, but that being said, I was looking at generators as well, may go with this one: Am I on the right track? with these 2, should I just get an engine driven welder? From what I can tell, that generator is the recommended size for the 210, am I correct in that assumption? Any recommendations otherwise?
submitted by Nerezarga to Welding [link] [comments]

2021.11.15 13:03 Darth_Stig Need help with a generator selection for welding and delicate electronics

Hey guys,
A bit of background to my dilemma:
I'm trying to buy a generator to do multiple things and I think I'm either overthinking it, or trying to solve too many things with an "all in one" idea... I'm building a golf simulator in a shed and instead of running power out to it, I was thinking of buying a generator (because I need a generator anyways). The one I'm looking at is this one because it's right at 1K. It has a 240v 50amp breaker for things like my welder (Miller Multimatic 200, link for exact specs are here) and also use my dryer if I lose power for over a week. Last year, I was without power for 4 days after a hurricane made landfall and I was nowhere near the actual hurricane. The most important thing if I lose power is running my 2 refrigerators and deep freezer, but having a washedryer working when needed I consider pretty high as well.
The problem I'm having is, I don't understand the square wave vs sine wave and how it affects electronics? I get that it's the more technical term for "brownout" or "dirty electricity", but why can't I plug a surge protector or better yet, a UPS into it? I read a couple of reddit posts saying that alot of UPSes won't even accept the square wave of a generator as real energy and won't charge off one. I don't understand how that works and shouldn't that be part of the job of a UPS is to deal with (and I'm about to use terms I don't fully understand) oscillating power fluctuations with an inverter or a converter of some sort to change that square wave into a sine wave?

TLDR: I'm trying to buy a portable generator that can run my hobby TIG welder that needs a 220v outlet AND be able to power a gaming PC with some other delicate electronics in a shed (not at the same time though). See link above for the one I'm thinking about.
submitted by Darth_Stig to Generator [link] [comments]

2021.10.06 23:37 jdyea Welder hookup for 208v

We've got a Miller XMT 350 FieldPro that we're going to be running in a building soon and want to get the parts together for an electrician to install it. The welder came with 6' of 8/4 SOOW pre-installed, with green, red, white, and black wires. It's currently configured with a NEMA 14-50R plug to run off a 240v outlet on an engine drive welder.
The work area has a 3 phase 208V panel. What's the best way to hook up to this? I'd like to have a pigtail so we can remove the welder from the job if necessary without having to call a sparky to come to disconnect it. I was looking at different NEMA and twist lock plugs but I'm having a hard time finding the right one.
submitted by jdyea to electricians [link] [comments]

2021.03.28 08:36 salmasabiha welding forum
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2021.01.02 06:12 PM_ME_YOUR_BlCYCLE Let's talk HF and EMF Safety.

I've been thinking about this for a while, and I know that grounding/cable wrapping for High Frequency is mentioned in some manuals, but honestly I haven't found a good explanation on the hazards of HF and EMFs as they related to TIG welding (and other welding types).
Page 26 of this TIG Miller manual references grounding literally everything metal in the picture, which isn't always practical or possible. What are the hazards of not grounding these things? I have been TIG welding for nearly 4 years with inverter TIG welders without noticing any HF issues. What gives?
Also... EMFs. They probably do bad things to you that we don't understand yet. Are the only real ways to reduce/avoid these wrapping the electrode cable and work clamp cable together and keeping them on the same side of your body?
TLDR; How do I not get cancer or kill someone's motherboard with EMFs and HF respectively?
EDIT: I understand that HF and EMF's can be different things. This question pertains to
  1. Safety with HF TIG
  2. Safety with EMFs generated in arc welding
submitted by PM_ME_YOUR_BlCYCLE to Welding [link] [comments]

2020.12.28 19:05 albrow100 Welder purchase debate

I’m looking for some options on my welder debate. I’d really like a multi process that does ac/dc tig and mig
I’m considering the Miller multimattic 220 Or the everlast lightning mts 225 with tig package
I guess I would be into 2 machines as well if it were cheaper or way better. But I have a small place to store the welder
submitted by albrow100 to Welding [link] [comments]

2019.11.05 04:12 l33tsnaxor Help with Miller Maxstar 150 STH

Help with Miller Maxstar 150 STH
The Miller Maxstar 150 STH our makerspace has took a dump. We've been locating and replacing fried components, but there's one that was so burned up, we can't read what the part is. It's the power resistor pointed out in this photo. (not our photo actually)
We think any variant of Maxstar 150 will do. Can someone open up the top cover of their machine and read this sucker out to us?
I've tried making an account at, but it hasn't been approved. :/
Thank you!!
submitted by l33tsnaxor to fixit [link] [comments]

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2019.09.27 17:50 linguinepanini Advice for hoods

Hey guys, I'm new to welding (in 2nd year of learning) and I'm still having trouble seeing I've been wondering if it's because I used to be cross-eyed and my pupils can't dialate or if light is coming in from behind the mask or if I'm doing something wrong (we use those hoods that every high school uses) and I'm also thinking about getting this hood
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2019.08.15 02:53 Smolderisawesome How to connect two wire feeders to one power supply?

Howdy, I've got a welder modification project and it is a bit out of my wheelhouse (I'm much better with tiny electronics.)
My father has an old welder that he wants to connect another wire feeder to so that he can quickly switch between the two feeders. He has already had the power supply modified so that he has an extra control cable and a switch to select which feeder controls the power supply. However, he still has to disconnect the heavy electrode cable and switch it between the two feeders, this is what we want to stream line.
We tried finding a SPDT switch but I couldn't find any that could handle the amperage (I assume it would be more than 100 amps but I'm not sure.) Now we are wondering if we even need a switch and could instead just splice another cable to the electrode so that it can be connected to both feeders at once. The two feeders would never be used at the same time. Here is a drawing I did to help explain what we want to do.
Thoughts? Would a simply splice work?
Edit: After hearing some responses we've decided not to move forward on this. This is turning into one of those projects where every single person you ask has a different answer and given the potential for fatal mistakes we didn't want to start experimenting. In all likelihood it wouldn't worth the effort and money to fix this minor inconvenience.
For those who are interested I was able to find the 'correct' way to do this with a Miller Proccess Selector Control which switches both the control signals and the electrode, but with a $1400 price tag. As for splices, they do make heavy duty ones for the 3/0 wire that our welder uses: IPLG series insul-tap multi-port connector for only $30.
Thanks again for the help!
submitted by Smolderisawesome to Welding [link] [comments]

2018.09.08 02:25 jd19x1 Figuring out what a welder can run.

I cant seem to find what this CP-302 welder can run mig wise like can it do pulse mig or spray and how do I find out.
submitted by jd19x1 to Welding [link] [comments]

2018.07.15 06:22 Askingforafriend37 Miller Symchrowave 210

Hi guys. I’m sort of new to welding, but have a bit of experience with O/A welding. I have been looking for a solid multi process machine that I can learn other processes on. Is this a good machine for this? Anybody who has used one, are there any major drawbacks? If I’m totally off here, what would you recommend?
This is the one I have been looking at.
submitted by Askingforafriend37 to Welding [link] [comments]

2018.05.17 19:14 Sumitso Dynasty 280 multi-process

Has anyone tried one of these yet? Dynasty® 280 DX multiprocess machines?
I've switched over to the 12VS on the XMT for mig fab work at home and I haven't looked back. I've relegated the millermatic 251 to lighter welding .023 and .030 mig primarily. I would assume it would be the same as the 12VS/XMT, just in a smaller package.
Curious about the wire behavior if anyone has used it.
submitted by Sumitso to Welding [link] [comments]

2018.04.04 16:04 2snikts 6010 for heavy equipment repairs

I’ve come across a few resources that always state 6010/6011 as a viable electrode choice for heavy equipment repairs. One is here. However, I’ve only ever seen 7018 used in the field. Personally, I use 6010 for gaps, shitty fit ups, and for thin material and 7018 for everything else. But I’ve been wondering lately is 6010 can be used for most repairs and maintenance welding. And if not, why exactly is 7018 a better choice?
submitted by 2snikts to Welding [link] [comments]

2017.11.14 00:04 BlackholeZ32 SDSU had 2 welders stolen last week.

Last Thursday night, someone broke into the machine shop in the SDSU engineering building and stole two Miller Dynasty 210DX TIG welders. The circumstances are rather suspicious, because we only just got the second welder, and it wasn't even set up yet. One would be missing the argon regulator, but otherwise complete. The other would be brand new, with no air line, pedal, ground, torch or even power cord.
I don't doubt that they're already outside of San Diego, but if you have or spot anything that would be helpful, please contact the school, or you could PM me.
submitted by BlackholeZ32 to sandiego [link] [comments]